These are essentially deconstructed mashed potatoes. Ricing the spuds with the butter and cream, rather than mashing them, makes them light and airy, and gives you a completely different experience. And get everything ready first, because you need to work very quickly once the potatoes are cooked.
4 as a side
10g unsalted butter
20 sage leaves
Salt and black pepper
1kg Yukon gold potatoes (or Rooster, if unavailable), peeled and cut into 3-4cm chunks
60ml double cream
1 generous grating fresh nutmeg
For the anchovy butter
130g unsalted butter, well softened at room temperature
1 tbsp white miso
4 anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 lemon – zest grated, to get 2 tsp, and juiced, to get 1 tbsp
1½ tbsp fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped
1. Put all the anchovy butter ingredients in a bowl, add a generous grind of pepper, mix with a fork, then set aside at room temperature.
2. Put 10g butter in a small frying pan on a medium-high heat and, once melted, add the sage and a tiny pinch of salt. Fry, stirring often, for three minutes, until deep green but not brown. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towel, to crisp up.
3. Put the potatoes and a tablespoon of salt in a medium saucepan for which you have a lid, add enough water to cover by about 4cm and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover loosely and simmer for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, but not mushy. Drain, and shake to make sure the potatoes are dry.
4. Meanwhile, put the cream, nutmeg and a pinch of salt in a small saute pan on medium heat, warm through gently, then keep warm on a low heat.
5. Melt the anchovy butter in the microwave (or in a small pan on a medium heat), just to heat through, then keep warm on a low heat.
6. Working quickly now, pass the hot potatoes through a potato ricer directly on to a platter, so they are well spread out. Spoon the anchovy butter all over the top, followed by the cream mix, top with the crisp sage and serve immediately.