On days when lemon and sugar simply won’t do, I’d rather devote my attention to fun fillings than to flipping – melty, gooey cheese and a spicy paste from a jar, say. Good-quality, shop-bought pancakes make the whole process so much easier, but I find that they can be a bit brittle, so heat them slightly, and gently, before filling, which will keep them pliable and stop them from cracking.
| 100g | unsalted butter |
| ½ | white cabbage, cut into 3mm-wide strips (400g net) |
| 250g | chestnut mushrooms, finely sliced |
| 200g | baby leaf spinach |
| 3 | rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and finely chopped, to get 2 tbsp |
| fine sea salt and black pepper | |
| 2 tsp | rose harissa paste, plus ½ tsp oil from the jar, for serving |
| 4 | shop-bought plain or sweet pancakes |
| 150g | taleggio, or camembert or brie, cut into 4 slices |
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