Elran Shrefler is the youngest of Ezra and Rachela Shrefler’s nine children, who run Azura, a restaurant in the heart of Machne Yehuda market that serves Jerusalemites traditional Kurdish recipes with a Turkish influence, the area from which Ezra hails. A member of the Slow Food movement, Elran starts work at four every morning and cooks all his food in massive pots on small oil-burning stoves (see picture on pages 122–3), just as his family has done for generations. His food, long-cooked stews and hearty soups, is ready for the first customers who arrive at around 8 a.m. (!). It is essentially real fast food — after the long hours of slow cooking, it takes seconds to plate and serve. Elran showed us how to make his stuffed aubergine, Turkish-style, which is our favourite dish at Azura. This is our interpretation.
| 4 | medium aubergines (about 1.2kg), halved lengthways |
| 6 tbsp | olive oil |
| 1½ tsp | ground cumin |
| 1½ tbsp | sweet paprika |
| 1 tbsp | ground cinnamon |
| 2 | medium onions (340g in total), finely chopped |
| 500g | minced lamb |
| 50g | pine nuts |
| 20g | flat-leaf parsley, chopped |
| 2 tsp | tomato purée |
| 3 tsp | caster sugar |
| 150ml | water |
| 1½ tbsp | lemon juice |
| 1 tsp | tamarind paste |
| 4 | cinnamon sticks |
| salt and black pepper |
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