Cretan food culture has a crystal-clear gender division that one does not want to mess with: women cook in the kitchen, men cook outdoors, in charge of meat. With dubious macho credentials, we were sceptical about cooking meat in the sun in the company of a bunch of famous local shepherds. Luckily, the souvlaki tasted good and we managed to win over the sceptics. You can do the same, trust us.
| 1kg | pork shoulder or neck, sinew and skin removed and cut into 2.5cm dice |
| 8 | skewers, soaked in water for a couple of hours or overnight |
| MARINADE | |
| 60ml | lemon juice |
| 2 tbsp | olive oil |
| 2 tsp | dried oregano |
| 2 tsp | dried mint, plus extra to finish |
| 1 tsp | ground clove |
| 1 tsp | ground star anise |
| 1 ½ tsp | cumin |
| 1 tsp | flaked chilli |
| 2 | garlic cloves, crushed |
| SALAD | |
| 3 | garlic cloves, crushed |
| 1 | small red onion, half roughly chopped (60g net) and half thinly sliced (60g net) |
| 2 tbsp | olive oil |
| 2 tsp | white wine vinegar |
| 6 | lebanese cucumbers, cut on an angle into ½ cm slices (600g net) |
| 2 | green peppers, cut into thin strips ½ cm thick (370g net) |
| ½ tsp | nigella seeds |
| 15g | dill, roughly chopped |
| 15g | mint, roughly chopped |
| YOGHURT SAUCE | |
| 1 | courgette, coarsely grated (200g net) |
| 250g | greek yoghurt |
| 2 tbsp | olive oil |
| 2 | cloves garlic, crushed |
| 60ml | lemon juice |
| 50g | unsalted butter |
| salt | |
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