These mustard croutons, adapted from those in Suzanne Goin's inspiring book Sunday Suppers At Lucques (Alfred Knopf, 2005), are a brilliant thing to have to hand and to sprinkle over gratins and salads. If you'd rather not make them, you'll need something else to perk up the soup: a teaspoon of rose harissa or some other savoury chilli sauce, swirled into each bowl before serving, would do the job perfectly well.
| 2 | tbsp olive oil |
| 10g | unsalted butter |
| 5g | thyme sprigs |
| 20g | parsley |
| 2 | lemons; shaved skin of 1 lemon, plus grated zest of ½ lemon |
| 1 | large onion, peeled and thinly sliced |
| 2 | large celery sticks, cut into 3cm pieces |
| 2 | bay leaves |
| 1 tsp | caraway seeds |
| salt and white pepper | |
| 1 | large cauliflower, broken into small florets |
| 1 | large potato, peeled and cut into 2cm dice |
| 1.4 litres | vegetable stock (or chicken stock for non-vegetarians) |
| 2 tbsp | chopped chives |
| FOR THE MUSTARD CROUTONS | |
| 90g | unsalted butter |
| 3 tbsp | dijon mustard |
| 3 tsp | picked thyme leaves |
| 3 tsp | finely chopped parsley |
| 150g | crustless ciabatta, torn into 1cm pieces |
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